Polyester Flags Threaten Livelihoods of Karnataka Khadi Workers

Why in the News?

The livelihoods of women working in Karnataka’s khadi national flag units are under threat following an amendment to the Flag Code of India permitting polyester and machine-made flags, leading to falling sales, surplus stock, and declining incomes in BIS-certified khadi units. This shift raises questions about environmental impact and the need for environmental clearances in flag production.

Impact on Khadi Workers and Local Livelihoods:

• The BIS-recognised national flag manufacturing unit at Bengeri, Hubballi, operated by Karnataka Khadi Gramodyoga Samyukta Sangha (KKGSS), has witnessed a sharp decline in demand.
• For workers like Shantha Basavaraj Gundgal, a widow supporting two college-going children, the unit is a crucial source of financial stability alongside part-time work.
• Reduced sales have led to lower workloads, affecting weekly loan repayments and household expenses.
• Another worker, Ratna Harvi, reported her monthly income falling from ₹6,000–₹7,000 to nearly half, amid mounting family liabilities.
• The distress extends beyond the unit, impacting hundreds of women across North Karnataka, where khadi units supply raw materials such as hand-spun and hand-woven cloth, contributing to a pollution-free environment through traditional practices that align with the precautionary principle of environmental protection.

Reasons for Declining Sales and Institutional Stress

• The primary cause of distress is the amendment to Clause 1.2 of Part I of the Flag Code of India, which allowed the use of polyester and machine-made fabric for national flags without considering the need for an environmental impact assessment or environmental clearance.
• Earlier, the Flag Code mandated the exclusive use of khadi, supporting traditional artisans and rural employment, aligning with principles of environmental democracy and the polluter pays principle.
• Polyester flags, being cheaper and mass-produced, have flooded the market, reducing demand for handcrafted khadi flags. This shift raises concerns about potential retrospective environmental clearances needed for large-scale polyester production.
• Many polyester flags are produced in sizes not originally prescribed, further distorting competition and potentially requiring ex post facto approvals for production changes.
• KKGSS officials acknowledged pressure to reduce the workforce, though temporary redeployment to other khadi units is being attempted as a stop-gap measure, highlighting the need for a balanced approach in environmental jurisprudence that considers both economic and ecological factors.